Septic Inspections

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• Locate and access the septic tank
• Determine if the tank is composed of concrete, metal, or fiberglass
• Determine if the water level in the tank is exactly where it should be
• Determine if the back baffle is intact
• Check flow from the house to the tank
• If the septic system has a pump chamber, check the pump floats and alarms for functionality
• Probe the outside of the septic tank to check for cracks/voids in the tank
• Attempt to locate the absorption area using county records, then probe to determine if it is functioning or failing
• Utilizing a fiber-optic camera to view and record the front and back plumbing lines to learn about potential clogging points.
•  The inspection includes excavating the back end of the tank by hand and exposing the distribution box when accessible, provided these are within three feet of grade and do not have obstructions above their access lids.

All water from the house, whether from the sink, shower, toilet, or another source, flows into the septic tank. The tank’s job is to trap solids and let cleaner water pass through to the drainage area. The tank must be pumped regularly to remove these solids. If the tank is not properly maintained, the solids can build up and escape into the drainage area. Once the water passes through the tank, it goes to a distribution box which distributes the water evenly to the drain fields or dry wells. The distribution box can become unleveled, pushing all the water to one particular drain field, causing premature failure. Drain fields are ditches approximately 60-100' long, though they may differ in size and depth. Typically, a drain field is dug 6' deep, then filled with 4' of limestone, which cleans the water as it passes into the ground and water table. A pipe runs from the distribution box to the drain field pipe, a tile with holes through which the water drips out into the stone.

• Clean Septic every 1-3 years
• Use Liquid Laundry Soap
• Don't Put Grease down your drain
• Don't Flush Baby wipes/ feminine products